By BETH ANN BATES
It’s easy to put off cleaning the fish tank, I know. But neglecting basic fish tank
maintenance, like neglecting your own basic health needs, will cause you misery down
the road. So what are the essentials of fish tank care?
The primary job is routine water changes. Part of the water in any fish tank must be
removed on a regular basis and replaced with fresh, clean water. “How often and how
much water?” you ask. Well, that’s a good question, guaranteed to spark debates among
us fish-nerds! Open any book or aquarium-related magazine and you are likely to find a
unique opinion on this subject.
There are a number of issues involved. One reason that people prefer to change less
volume is that water changes can be hard work. If you are using buckets to move the dirty
water to the sink and the clean water from the sink to the tank, you can skip your weight-
lifting exercises the next time you go to the gym.
Advanced hobbyists often invest in a contraption of hoses that attaches to the sink and
reaches to the tank. These gadgets are very helpful but pricey. They go for $50 and up,
depending on the size (length of hoses). So, many beginners are using buckets and are
hesitant to lug too many on any given day. It can be time-consuming and tiring.
On the other hand, once you drag out the buckets and towels and get ready to do this
chore, you might as well do a significant water change. (If you are using buckets,
remember that they must be reserved for this particular use only. Never use a bucket that
has been used for household cleaning. Minuscule tracks of common cleansers can
poison your fish.)
Another concern is the change to the tank’s water chemistry caused by adding new
water. While you are deliberately trying to improve the water by removing the dirty stuff,
you need to be cautious that the replacement water is compatible with the tank.
Temperature and ph in particular need to be matched to the tank, to avoid shocking your
fish.
Some hobbyists advocate more frequent but smaller water changes as less likely to
cause a problem. Many people believe that larger tanks are more stable and require less
water changes than small tanks. While this may be true, the way a tank is stocked has a
huge impact on water quality. I don’t know any fish-keeper that can resist the urge to fully
stock their tank (or tanks), especially beginners. We always try to push our luck. Since
this is true, water changes need to be sizeable to counteract our urge for more fish.
Okay, here’s my opinion: I strive to change about 30% of the water in every tank, every
week. It’s enough to keep good water quality, yet not so much that I’m exhausted by the
buckets or worried that I messed up the water chemistry. I have read many suggestions
and strong opinions, ranging from 10% to 50%, once a week to once a month. But the
30% mark seems to be the point where true improvement in water quality is achieved.
Less than that may not be enough. More is fine, but not necessarily a huge improvement.
I have invested in the hose contraption, now if I could just figure out how the heck to
attach it to my faucet!
Remember that the water coming out of your tap is probably chlorinated and needs
additives to make it safe for your fish. At the very least, you will almost certainly add a
dechlorinator to the water. As with many things in this hobby, water additives are
available in an astounding variety. As a freshwater hobbyist, in addition to simple
dechlorinators, I’m familiar with products designed to promote the protective slime coat
of fish, adjust ph levels, increase growth of live plants, etc. For saltwater tanks I’m sure
there are many other products. My advice is to tread lightly in this area. One good, basic
water conditioner is important, but adding a lot of other chemicals can cause problems.
Never count on an additive to do the work of tank maintenance for you. With proper water
changes, you should not need additives to solve difficulties like algae or illness.
If you do decide to experiment with other substances, start slowly, try only one additional
product at a time and keep good records of the results.
Some other points about water chang-es deserve mention. Before you change the water,
test it for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. The subject of the nitrogen cycle and the
presence of these elements is a huge topic, too big to cover in this article. Suffice it to say
that these three toxins are harmful to your fish in varying degrees and need to be tracked.
Test kits of various types are available. I have one that comes with numerous test tubes
and makes me feel like a mad scientist. The test strips that you just dip in the aquarium
are easy and they’re fine too. If you find any ammonia, that’s not a good thing. You will
need to do a substantial water change to make the water safe for your fish. I always
recommend that you keep notes on your fish tank, and the parameters of your water
chemistry is probably the most important thing to keep in your notes. (I will tell you more
about record-keeping in a future article.)
While you are changing the water, you will also vacuum the gravel. This is much easier
than it sounds. All water changing hoses are equipped with a big nozzle on one end. The
suction of the water allows you to vacuum up the fish waste and decaying food from the
bottom of your tank. Doing this works wonders for the water quality, as these wastes are
major polluters in your aquarium.
Also, be sure to remove dead plants and/or parts of plants that died. Those of us whose
tanks are heavily planted with live aquatic plants often eschew the vacuuming ritual, as it
can disturb the plant roots. While I do have lots of live plants, I still vacuum lightly around
them. You know—like that heavy couch in the living-room.
You may also want to scrape the insides of the tank to remove algae or similar yucky stuff
that mars the beauty of the tank. There are scrapers with long handles and ones that
come in two magnetic pieces that stick to both the inside and outside of the glass at
the same time. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations for usage.
As part of your cleaning efforts, you may need to change a part of your filter media,
depending on the style or brand you use. I use power filters that hang off the back of
the tank. They require carbon inserts that the manufacturer recommends be changed
monthly. Sticking to the manufacturer’s guidelines will help keep your water in top shape.
I rinse out the plastic parts of the filter and clean the motor, as per product instructions. I
scrub the tubes with a brush especially made for aquarium use. My filter has a sponge
that strains out debris while housing the good bacteria needed to keep my aquarium
healthy. To clean it, I carefully squeeze it and rinse it in a bucket of used tank water. This
removes the gunk but keeps the bacteria. Never rinse these filter parts under the tap—
the chlorine in the tap water will kill the healthy bacteria.
Here’s a weird hint for you: use the dirty water that you siphoned out of your aquarium to
water your house plants. The fish waste is a natural fertilizer, and you will be amazed at
how much plants love it!
In addition to the filter, you should check all other equipment as you are cleaning. Be sure
the heater, air pump, lights and other things are functioning properly. Wipe down the
hood with a clean paper towel. This is also a fine time to observe your fish. Look closely
to see that they are healthy. Believe it or not, you might need to count your fish.
Sometimes you lose a fish and don’t realize it until you count. Of course, if you find a fish
that has died, remove it immediately. A decaying fish will pollute your water. Fish losses
happen, and you need to know about it. A loss is a clear sign that you should step up
your maintenance schedule.
One last warning about water changes: watch out where you point the hose. With all that
you are thinking of during this process, it’s easy to take your mind off the bucket that is
filling rapidly. Once I was frantically cleaning my tank shortly before guests were due to
arrive. I had the vacuum end of the hose in my left hand in the tank, and the other end in
my right hand in the bucket. Well it was in the bucket until I turned my head to look at
something and the rest of my body — including the hand with the hose — turned too.
Yikes! One kind friend arrived early to help prepare for the party, and I immediately set her
to work blow-drying the sofa cushions where the water had landed. Later that evening, a
guest who happened to speak little English, managed to say “wet” as she grabbed
her behind and got up from that part of the sofa. Talk about embarrassing!
To sum up, the basic tools you may need are fish-only buckets, some clean towels (cloth
and/or paper), siphon hoses/tools, water dechlorinator, an algae scraper, new filter
material, nets, brushes to clean the filter tubes, water test kit, and your notebook or
calendar, to record your observations and actions with the dates, water quality and other
information. A cooperative family member would be great if you have one. You will also
need a considerable chunk of time. Good fish tank maintenance takes time, but enjoying
a clean healthy tank full of happy fish is worth it.
Beth Ann Bates began keeping tropical fish about two years ago and still considers herself a
beginner. An adjunct professor of English at William Paterson University in Wayne, New Jersey,
Beth Ann lives with two shelter cats and numerous freshwater fish. She is happy to correspond
with fish-lovers of all ages; e-mail writerbates@yahoo.com.
First published January 2007 in The Animal Companion.
It’s easy to put off cleaning the fish tank, I know. But neglecting basic fish tank
maintenance, like neglecting your own basic health needs, will cause you misery down
the road. So what are the essentials of fish tank care?
The primary job is routine water changes. Part of the water in any fish tank must be
removed on a regular basis and replaced with fresh, clean water. “How often and how
much water?” you ask. Well, that’s a good question, guaranteed to spark debates among
us fish-nerds! Open any book or aquarium-related magazine and you are likely to find a
unique opinion on this subject.
There are a number of issues involved. One reason that people prefer to change less
volume is that water changes can be hard work. If you are using buckets to move the dirty
water to the sink and the clean water from the sink to the tank, you can skip your weight-
lifting exercises the next time you go to the gym.
Advanced hobbyists often invest in a contraption of hoses that attaches to the sink and
reaches to the tank. These gadgets are very helpful but pricey. They go for $50 and up,
depending on the size (length of hoses). So, many beginners are using buckets and are
hesitant to lug too many on any given day. It can be time-consuming and tiring.
On the other hand, once you drag out the buckets and towels and get ready to do this
chore, you might as well do a significant water change. (If you are using buckets,
remember that they must be reserved for this particular use only. Never use a bucket that
has been used for household cleaning. Minuscule tracks of common cleansers can
poison your fish.)
Another concern is the change to the tank’s water chemistry caused by adding new
water. While you are deliberately trying to improve the water by removing the dirty stuff,
you need to be cautious that the replacement water is compatible with the tank.
Temperature and ph in particular need to be matched to the tank, to avoid shocking your
fish.
Some hobbyists advocate more frequent but smaller water changes as less likely to
cause a problem. Many people believe that larger tanks are more stable and require less
water changes than small tanks. While this may be true, the way a tank is stocked has a
huge impact on water quality. I don’t know any fish-keeper that can resist the urge to fully
stock their tank (or tanks), especially beginners. We always try to push our luck. Since
this is true, water changes need to be sizeable to counteract our urge for more fish.
Okay, here’s my opinion: I strive to change about 30% of the water in every tank, every
week. It’s enough to keep good water quality, yet not so much that I’m exhausted by the
buckets or worried that I messed up the water chemistry. I have read many suggestions
and strong opinions, ranging from 10% to 50%, once a week to once a month. But the
30% mark seems to be the point where true improvement in water quality is achieved.
Less than that may not be enough. More is fine, but not necessarily a huge improvement.
I have invested in the hose contraption, now if I could just figure out how the heck to
attach it to my faucet!
Remember that the water coming out of your tap is probably chlorinated and needs
additives to make it safe for your fish. At the very least, you will almost certainly add a
dechlorinator to the water. As with many things in this hobby, water additives are
available in an astounding variety. As a freshwater hobbyist, in addition to simple
dechlorinators, I’m familiar with products designed to promote the protective slime coat
of fish, adjust ph levels, increase growth of live plants, etc. For saltwater tanks I’m sure
there are many other products. My advice is to tread lightly in this area. One good, basic
water conditioner is important, but adding a lot of other chemicals can cause problems.
Never count on an additive to do the work of tank maintenance for you. With proper water
changes, you should not need additives to solve difficulties like algae or illness.
If you do decide to experiment with other substances, start slowly, try only one additional
product at a time and keep good records of the results.
Some other points about water chang-es deserve mention. Before you change the water,
test it for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. The subject of the nitrogen cycle and the
presence of these elements is a huge topic, too big to cover in this article. Suffice it to say
that these three toxins are harmful to your fish in varying degrees and need to be tracked.
Test kits of various types are available. I have one that comes with numerous test tubes
and makes me feel like a mad scientist. The test strips that you just dip in the aquarium
are easy and they’re fine too. If you find any ammonia, that’s not a good thing. You will
need to do a substantial water change to make the water safe for your fish. I always
recommend that you keep notes on your fish tank, and the parameters of your water
chemistry is probably the most important thing to keep in your notes. (I will tell you more
about record-keeping in a future article.)
While you are changing the water, you will also vacuum the gravel. This is much easier
than it sounds. All water changing hoses are equipped with a big nozzle on one end. The
suction of the water allows you to vacuum up the fish waste and decaying food from the
bottom of your tank. Doing this works wonders for the water quality, as these wastes are
major polluters in your aquarium.
Also, be sure to remove dead plants and/or parts of plants that died. Those of us whose
tanks are heavily planted with live aquatic plants often eschew the vacuuming ritual, as it
can disturb the plant roots. While I do have lots of live plants, I still vacuum lightly around
them. You know—like that heavy couch in the living-room.
You may also want to scrape the insides of the tank to remove algae or similar yucky stuff
that mars the beauty of the tank. There are scrapers with long handles and ones that
come in two magnetic pieces that stick to both the inside and outside of the glass at
the same time. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations for usage.
As part of your cleaning efforts, you may need to change a part of your filter media,
depending on the style or brand you use. I use power filters that hang off the back of
the tank. They require carbon inserts that the manufacturer recommends be changed
monthly. Sticking to the manufacturer’s guidelines will help keep your water in top shape.
I rinse out the plastic parts of the filter and clean the motor, as per product instructions. I
scrub the tubes with a brush especially made for aquarium use. My filter has a sponge
that strains out debris while housing the good bacteria needed to keep my aquarium
healthy. To clean it, I carefully squeeze it and rinse it in a bucket of used tank water. This
removes the gunk but keeps the bacteria. Never rinse these filter parts under the tap—
the chlorine in the tap water will kill the healthy bacteria.
Here’s a weird hint for you: use the dirty water that you siphoned out of your aquarium to
water your house plants. The fish waste is a natural fertilizer, and you will be amazed at
how much plants love it!
In addition to the filter, you should check all other equipment as you are cleaning. Be sure
the heater, air pump, lights and other things are functioning properly. Wipe down the
hood with a clean paper towel. This is also a fine time to observe your fish. Look closely
to see that they are healthy. Believe it or not, you might need to count your fish.
Sometimes you lose a fish and don’t realize it until you count. Of course, if you find a fish
that has died, remove it immediately. A decaying fish will pollute your water. Fish losses
happen, and you need to know about it. A loss is a clear sign that you should step up
your maintenance schedule.
One last warning about water changes: watch out where you point the hose. With all that
you are thinking of during this process, it’s easy to take your mind off the bucket that is
filling rapidly. Once I was frantically cleaning my tank shortly before guests were due to
arrive. I had the vacuum end of the hose in my left hand in the tank, and the other end in
my right hand in the bucket. Well it was in the bucket until I turned my head to look at
something and the rest of my body — including the hand with the hose — turned too.
Yikes! One kind friend arrived early to help prepare for the party, and I immediately set her
to work blow-drying the sofa cushions where the water had landed. Later that evening, a
guest who happened to speak little English, managed to say “wet” as she grabbed
her behind and got up from that part of the sofa. Talk about embarrassing!
To sum up, the basic tools you may need are fish-only buckets, some clean towels (cloth
and/or paper), siphon hoses/tools, water dechlorinator, an algae scraper, new filter
material, nets, brushes to clean the filter tubes, water test kit, and your notebook or
calendar, to record your observations and actions with the dates, water quality and other
information. A cooperative family member would be great if you have one. You will also
need a considerable chunk of time. Good fish tank maintenance takes time, but enjoying
a clean healthy tank full of happy fish is worth it.
Beth Ann Bates began keeping tropical fish about two years ago and still considers herself a
beginner. An adjunct professor of English at William Paterson University in Wayne, New Jersey,
Beth Ann lives with two shelter cats and numerous freshwater fish. She is happy to correspond
with fish-lovers of all ages; e-mail writerbates@yahoo.com.
First published January 2007 in The Animal Companion.
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